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Edit: I made a new one with my A/V modded Famicom: [url=http://rainwarrior.ca/projects/nes/lagrange_point_ref.zip]http://rainwarrior.ca/projects/nes/lagrange_point_ref.zip
I also made one from my modded NES earlier: [url=http://rainwarrior.ca/projects/nes/lagrange_point_nes_ref.zip]http://rainwarrior.ca/projects/nes/lagrange_point_nes_ref.zip
Enjoy the authentically unpleasant hiss of my NES / Famicom.
Haha, I can hear the hiss, but other than that sounds really nice. I wish I had cool games with expansion chips, but I have like only 5 games for my NES and they're all generic. -_-
What'd you do to minimize the hiss? Mine is ungodly...
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One comes from an unknown source (probably my mod, but it still happens even when the AC adapter is unplugged, and the other is just pure POWER(!!!) when the NES is powered on.
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Well, there are many potential sources of interference to the audio signal. Since the 2A03 has audio on the same chip as the CPU, there's really no opportunity to shield it from the other stuff that's going on. It's just not designed for clean sound.
Unless you've got wires touching the wrong things, or your audio mod has left an unusually long amount of coiled up wire left hanging around inside your NES, I doubt it has much of an impact. Though, I did put mine on a switch so I can cut the circuit when not using the audio expansion, but in this case it's on, obviously, so that's not making a difference.
If you've got a bad 60hz buzz, possibly the power source is not being filtered very well? I once had a dried up electrolytic capacitor on my Genesis that was supposed to be filtering the power fed to the audio chip; replacing it got rid of a -horrible- noise (I could hear the CPU through the speakers, pretty much as loud as the regular audio).
Nope, it's just a resistor, though I am thinking of replacing it with a slider (cunningly hidden in one of those grooves under the system).
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I'm using a 100k ohm pot+switch combo and it's working great for me. I think it [url=http://dl.dropbox.com/u/34026765/IMG_2509.JPG]looks [url=http://dl.dropbox.com/u/34026765/IMG_2510.JPG]nice, too!
I don't mean on your audio mod, which should be a resistor. I mean the actual power supply to your 2A03 or one of the audio mixing components on the board (I think there's a transistor amplifier in there, you may want to check its power lines).
I know, I had intended to post that sooner, and when I did you had already edited yours. Also, jr, I like those high resolution dust effects on your NES. It gives it an older feel :P
But relating to the topic at hand, are you recording from a FC, or from an american NES (Not like it would make a considerable difference)?
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Okay, I have a stupid question about expansion chips... Would I need something installed to my NES if I wanted something like VRC7 support or something? Because from what it looks like it seems I do, but I don't know what...
-A resistor/pot between pins 3 and 9 of the NES's expansion port
-A modded 60-72 pin converter with a wire that connects the pin responsible for expansion audio on the Famicom side to the pin that goes from the NES cart connector to pin 3 of the NES's expansion port.
I guess you would need a Powerpak, or your own flash cartridge with a VRC7 chip installed on it. Or if you just want to play Lagrange Point, use a Famicom to NES adapter.
1. PowerPak does not have a VRC7 emulation. You're going to need an actual VRC7 chip, or program the PowerPak's FPGA to emulate VRC7 yourself.
2. You need to mod a Famicom to NES adapter to get the sound out to an expansion pin (PowerPak uses EXP6, so I recommend routing it to that one if you ever want to use a PowerPak too). Then you need to mod the expansion output to route that pin to the expansion audio in pin.
3. There is actually a big difference between external audio mixing on an NES and the Famicom. On the Famicom, the 2A03 audio actually gets sent to the cartridge on pin 45, and is returned on pin 46. Cartridges without expansion audio just connect 45 to 46 directly and pass the audio through, but cartridges with expansion audio are actually responsible for mixing them together. An NES with the requisite mods, however, does not pass audio into the cart, so the mix is actually being done externally and arbitrarily. Now, the passive mix being done with a resistor mod is okay, and actually might be similar to what's on the chip, but it's kind of difficult to know for certain, and all you can do really is arbitrarily adjust the level of the expansion audio to the point where it sounds reasonable (if you were sensible enough to put a variable resistor in there, at least). Theoretically I could cut my audio out line and route it directly to the cart for more authentic Famicom mixing, but I'm not hardcore enough for that (yet).
Anyhow, my goal here wasn't accurate mix levels; that's really easy to tweak in an emulator anyway. I wanted real hardware reference for the VRC7 sound itself, which this is perfectly accurate for. Emulators so far are pretty good, but there's still some nagging minor differences which I hope to tackle.